Travel

A Weekend In Deauville And Trouville-Sur-Mer

by Lily Heise

Only a two-hour train journey from the capital, the twin towns of Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer are the perfect place for a weekend getaway from Paris. Although both have beautiful beaches, these seaside resort towns are also abundant in great restaurants, boutiques, and markets, offering plenty to do year-round. 

On left: the Halle aux Poissons in Trouville-sur-Mer invites visitors and locals to taste the fresh seafood caught on local beaches. On right: Fresh mussels and seared octopus are plated and ready to be served at La Table du Marché, a restaurant in Trouveille-sur-Mer that emphasizes local ingredients.
Trouville sur Mer / La Table du Marché

Dubbed the 21st arrondissement, Deauville is indeed very Parisienne. There was little here before Napoleon III’s half brother, the Duc de Morny, encouraged by the growing popularity of holidaying on the seaside, transformed the area into a chic resort in 1860. Before long, its straight avenues were populated with elegant mansions and the who’s who of Parisian high society.  

On left: The grand Normand facade of Le Normandy, Deauville's glamorous hotel, has welcomed visitors such as Winston Churchill and Coco Chanel during the course of its history. On right: the Belle Époque restaurant of the storied Deauville hotel, Le Normandy, awaits diners in the sunshine.
Le Normandy

Take a Stroll in Deauville

The ideal place to start your day in Deauville is by walking its famous Promenade des Planches, a 1,800-meter-long boardwalk which runs along its wide beach. The section closest to town is lined with stylish Art Deco bath houses whose dividers bear the names of actors who’ve attended the town’s annual American Film Festival, held in Deauville every September since 1975. Weather, and summer crowds permitting, you can extend your stroll by relaxing on the fine white sand beaches or taking a dip in the sea.

On left: A classic sidecar rolls through a busy intersection. Retro Tours Normandie offers guided, personal visits of the region in their old-school vehicles. On right: The seashore is visible from the gardens of Villa Montebello, now a museum and the former home of Napoleon III in Trouville-sur-Mer.
Retro Tours Normandie / Kevin Thibaud, Office de Tourisme de Trouville-sur-Mer

Another Deauville highlight is its impressive collection of Victorian-era villas. A nice way to see them is by bike; your hotel might have some available for rent, or there are various rental companies in town like Atelier Lucas Cycles. Alternatively, for an even more unique way of visiting Deauville, book a tour by vintage sidecar motorcycle with Retro Tour Normandy. Their tours visit Deauville highlights, some secret places, and the city’s renowned hippodromes. They also have longer tours that explore the surrounding countryside.

On left: The fun interior of Les Quatre Chats, a quirky establishment in Trouville-sur-Mer, is a bar and restaurant known for burgers and brunch with an eclectic atmosphere. On right: Visitors can enjoy drinks on the terrace of Les Quatre Chats, a quirky bar and restaurant in Trouveille-sur-Mer.
Les Quatre Chats, Michel Tréhet

Stop for Apéro

By now it’s likely apéro hour and there’s no more Deauvillian a place for this then the glamorous Le Normandy. A local institution, the grand hotel has hosted the likes of Winston Churchill and Coco Chanel. Non-guests can come for drinks at their piano bar or a gourmet meal at their Belle Époque restaurant. With chic rooms featuring hints of traditional Normand decor and exceptional sea views, the hotel is also an excellent place to stay in Deauville.

On left: Chic, plush rooms greet guests of Le Normandy, an elegant, glamorous establishment in Deauville which has hosted the likes of Winston Churchill and Coco Chanel. On right: Guests have a view of the sea from the rooms of the Deauvillian establishment Le Normandy, which is equal part elegant with Normand charm.
Le Normandy

If you don’t carry on with dinner at Le Normandy, then there are several other solid dining options in Deauville. For a posh dinner, book ahead at L’Essentiel or Maximin Hellio, both of which have one Michelin star. You can enjoy a midrange-priced seafood feast at Augusto Chez Laurent, famous for its lobster. For something more laid back try Le Jardin, which has market-based cuisine, or Le Drakkar, a traditional brasserie on Deauville’s main street, perfect for people watching.

On left: A carefully-plated seafood dish is ready to be served at Maximin Hellio, a one-star Michelin restaurant in Deauville. On right: Dessert is served in the form of a petite fruit and cream tart at the one-star restaurant Maximin Hellio in Deauville.
Maximin Hellio

Try Your Luck

Deauville is also famous for its Barrière Casino, which is worth popping into even if you don’t plan on gambling. You’ll feel like you’ve entered a James Bond movie—especially if you’re staying at Le Normandy and take the secret passageway between the hotel and the casino.

On left: Street art by the renowned Miss.Tic graces the wall of a building on the beach of Trouville-sur-Mer. The artist's works can be found hiding around the town. On right: A view of the beach from the sea in Trouville-sur-Mer, where beachgoers dot the shore on a clear, sunny day.
Kévin Thibaud Office de Tourisme de Trouville-sur-Mer

Explore Fishing Village Trouville-sur-Mer

On Sunday, a short walk across the Pont des Belges will take you over to Trouville-sur-Mer. Much older than Deauville, the town’s fishing-village roots go back for centuries and are very much still alive today. You can see these first-hand at its renowned fish market, but you may want to start by perusing Trouville’s fabulous farmer’s market. Held on Sunday mornings (Deauville’s marché is on Saturday mornings) and featuring real farmers and artisanal producers, you could forage for picnic supplies including local Deauville or Pont l’Evêque cheeses, crisp local apples, and artisanal cider. If you haven’t stocked up at the market, you can indulge at the lively seafood stalls at the Marché aux Poissons. A fish-lovers paradise, scout out some freshly caught lobster or oysters from nearby Utah Beach.

On left: The terrace of the tea salon and shop, Pipelettes & Co, invite passerby to stop in for an afternoon snack in Trouville-sur-Mer. On right: Tea, snacks, and flowers spill onto a table on the terrace of Pipelettes & Co, where visitors can discover different types of teas and sit for a cup in Trouville-sur-Mer.
Pipelettes & Co

If you’re looking for other lunch spots, there’s Les Affiches, a great bistro serving seasonal cuisine. It’s popular, so reserve in advance. Otherwise, La Table du Marché has a good-value lunch menu that uses high-quality local ingredients, Les Mouettes is a lively old-school establishment, and there are also a number of good crêperies in town. Albeit a speciality from Brittany, crêpes are usually served with cider from Normandy. 

On left: The classic, brightly-hued beach umbrellas stand to attention on the beach of Deauville, awaiting the holiday crowd. On right: Beachgoers enjoy an afternoon stroll in Deauville, dipping in and out of the playful waves.
Guillaume Paumier, Francisco Gonzalez

Beach Balade

After lunch, be sure to visit Trouville’s own beautiful beach to see why the town has earned its nickname “the queen of beaches.” In summer, it’s dotted with colorful beach huts and year-round is lined with 19th-century villas and benches named after some of the well-known vacationers who favored Trouville, including Monet, Flaubert, Proust, and Napoleon III. The Emperor’s summertime residence, the Villa Montebello, is now a museum covering the history of the town (free on Sundays, but closed during lunch).

On left: The chalkboard at Pipelettes & Co invite visitors to pop in for tea. Both a salon and shop, it offers a terrace for a relaxing afternoon. On right: Jars of tea leaves line the walls of Pipelettes & Co, a salon and shop in Trouville-sur-Mer.
Pipelettes & Co

For the rest of the day, you can amble Trouville’s narrow cobbled streets. Rue des Bains, the town’s main street, is particularly lively and has some whimsical boutiques like La Quincaillerie d’Albertine, selling unique jewelry, clothing, and housewares; and Villa Gypsy, a design shop which also has a cool café with a tranquil back terrace. You can also have a nice afternoon break at Pipelettes & Co, a charming tea salon and shop. On your stroll, keep an eye out for the several street art pieces done by well-known French street artist Miss.Tic.

On left: An iced bundt cake, accompanied by fresh orange slices and ginger on the side, waits to be served at Villa Gypsy, a design shop and café in Trouville-sur-Mer. On right: Slices of bundt cake, garnished with orange slices and a creamy icing, reveal the rich crumb at Villa Gypsy, a café with a tranquil terrace in Trouville-sur-Mer.
Villa Gypsy

If you are in Trouville into the late afternoon or evening, Les Étiquettes is a lively wine bar that serves a range of planches and tapas. Or try Les Quatre Chats, a quirky bar with a restaurant across the street, known for its burgers and brunch.

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Written by Lily Heise for HiP Paris. Looking to travel? Check out Haven In for a  fabulous vacation rental in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long-term or buy in France or Italy? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates.

Written By

Lily Heise

Lily Heise has been living in Paris for more than 10 years. When she's not getting into romantic mischief, she writes on dating, travel, and culture. Her writing has been featured in Frommer’s Guides, the Huffington Post, Conde Nast Traveler, City Secrets, DK Eyewitness Guides, and other local and international publications. She is the author of Je T'Aime, Me Neither, and Je T'Aime... Maybe? lively novelized memoirs on her romantic misadventures, and continues to share dating tips, stories and travel features on her blog www.jetaimemeneither.com. View Lily Heise's Website

8 comments on “A Weekend In Deauville And Trouville-Sur-Mer

It’s a ten minute walk from the centre of Deauville to the main drag in Trouville.
Both are magnifique! 🇫🇷

Oui!! 🙂

2 of my favorite places on the planet. Such beautiful pictures.

They are both wonderful!

Thank you!

Let us know what you find! And if you want a great flat in Paris I can help with that…

Looks lovely! We are visiting Paris for 2 weeks in June. How far apart are Deauville and Trouville? Would we be able to easily walk between them? And which of them would be better for overnight lodging?

Love your blog. Thank you!

Ah, I think its 2.2 km so more than a mile… and both are great for overnight. Thanks for loving the blog and good luck!

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