Back to School in France: The Definitive Guide To Surviving La Rentrée in Paris

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Collective grumbles and groans fill the Metro and all public places. Reacquainted with their suits and heels, there are no smiles behind those suntans. Kids arm themselves with freshly sharpened pencils and tall tales of les vacances. Vive la rentrée ! Since Paris clears out in July and August, losing its habitants to warmer climates, the first week of September kicks off back to school and back to the grind. Knits, boots, and frowns automatically replace the brief bare-leg season in anticipation of Paris’ notorious grey months ahead. But before booking a one-way ticket back to the Côte d’Azur, rest assured : Paris comes out of hibernation and is reborn this time of year. And uncovering the joys of Paris in September can ease the pain of la rentrée.

Picnicking

Since summer hit Paris bizarrely late this year, I am optimistic that a few weeks of picnicking can be milked out of September. And the best part about a picnic in September? Since everyone is back in town, FRIENDS! Whether perched high on a hill overlooking Paris at the parc Buttes Chaumont or in a clearing deep in the woods at the Bois de Vincennes, the adventure begins with the guest list and the contents of the picnic basket.

A montage of an illustration of the Eiffel Tower carrying a suitcase and a Paris Metro sign with a frowning face drawn into the lamp.

Reuniting

September is also a time of rediscovery. Going back to my neighborhood green market and getting reacquainted with my favorite vendors is a pleasant reunion. And there is so much to catch up on: the weather, the cheese monger’s vacation in Corsica, the economics of figs, and finding inspiration in the lineup of fall produce.

Bread

Similarly, the boulangeries have reopened their doors! The doughy Monoprix supermarket imposter baguettes that subsidized our tomato salads this summer (affectionately dubbed crétin bread by my picky French other half) can be banished until next August. Instead of the summertime half-hour search for a baguette, now I all I need to do is choose from one of the three bakeries on my block.

La mode

Parisian fashionistas are excited to put their colorful rompers away until next year – and it shows. The re-imagined Parisienne staple is all about texture and volume. Luscious fabrics, embroidery, exaggerated silhouettes, and velvet reinterpret noir with an elaborately untold grandiosity. Time to update that LBD. Cos, H&M’s minimalist little sister, is an affordable standby for updating a fall wardrobe with clean design and innovative fabrics. Cos 4 Rue des Rosiers 75004 Paris

An illustration of a fashionable French woman and pigeons.

Wearing socks again

In anti-fashion news, I took an uncharacteristic liking to flip-flops this summer in an attempt to reconnect with my American culture. And why not? On my daily search for baguette, they were a cinch to throw on. And what is more cinematic than walking to the music of my own footsteps? But all signs of summer, including my collection of Carmen Miranda-inspired polyester sundresses, must be packed away by the time September rolls around. As la rentrée marks that time of year when dirty looks flood the Metro once again, too. I am taking this occasion to finally purchase some beautiful boots from La Botte Gardiane, the company specializing in riding boots made in France. I have been dreaming about owning a pair since I stumbled across their new boutique on rue Charonne. And I suppose I am in the market for some socks, too. La Botte Gardiane 25 rue de Charonne 75011 Paris.

Although the return to reality is always a drag, Paris is finally open again for business. Halleluiah! My emails will finally be returned. And this being France, the next vacation is never more than a few months away.

RELATED LINKS

Another favorite HIP writer Yvonne Hazelton has another take on la rentrée in Paris.
Summer is not over just yet. Evoke the South of France wherever you are with Rebekah Peppler’s fantastic book Le Sud.
Check out one of our favorite illustrated books Art Hiding in Paris.

Written and illustrated by Jessie Kanelos Weiner for HIP Paris.. Looking to travel? Check out Plum Guide and our Marketplace for fabulous vacation rentals in Paris, France or Italy. Looking to rent long or short term, or buy in France? Ask us! We can connect you to our trusted providers for amazing service and rates or click here. Looking to bring France home to you or to learn online or in person? Check out our marketplace shop and experiences.

WRITTEN BY

Jessie Kanelos Weiner

Jessie Kanelos Weiner is a bilingual artist, illustrator and author based in Paris. She illustrates for a many prestigious clients. Her signature watercolor style is commissioned from luxury houses (Cartier, Free People, Atelier Cologne), food brands (Nespresso, Great Jones, Elle à Table) and editorials (Vogue, New Yorker, T MAG). She is currently painting large-scale watercolors and creating her next book about watercolor with Artisan. Jessie is also an ambitious home cook and also appears occasionally as a standup comedian. She is represented by Lipstick London.